Wednesday, April 20, 2005

England Musings #3

Originally sent 19 April 2005
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Hiya, again!

Hope this note finds all of you well! Figured it was about time to put down some of what was going on over here - if nothing else for my own forgetful memory. Hopefully, the notes are not coming off as too egocentric or anything like that - my intent is to inform those who are interested and complete a record of sorts for when I get old (you know, over thirty or so). If you don't want to receive such emails from me just drop me a note saying so or delete this message... I find it interesting to actually write these notes knowing they will be read by many of you - what must it be like to read them?

The attached picture collages have captions associated with them that I have put at the very bottom of this message (pictures described in clockwise fashion beginning with upper left corner) - please see below. This installment will be the 3rd general message that I have written down in the past three weeks of living here in England (yes, it will be three weeks by today, Tuesday, 19 April). However, some portions of it have been cut and pasted from shorter messages to various individuals in order to shorten the composition time... If for some reason you didn't get the two previous installments (and picture collage) and would like them, please let me know and I will send them to you.

I guess the last email was written on Friday, 12 April, prior to going on night watch. Well, night watch begun on Saturday afternoon, but not before I was able to get out in the morning on my first trip to the surrounding areas. Saturday morning I took my first ride on the local mass transit system - in this case a train similar to typical subways, however, much of this train rides above the ground except in downtown Newcastle & downtown Gateshead. In any case I hopped on the "Metro" here at the Jarrow station and rode east to South Shields (something like five miles maybe). Public transit is used very heavily here I would say. There is also an extensive bus system within the area (a very large area actually) and then additional train and bus service outside of Newcastle and surrounding towns, pretty much with service all over the island from what I can tell. I have come to find that the Metro service is very handy for getting around, maybe a bit on the spendy side (something like $6.40 for a day pass, location-to-location tickets are also available for less) but certainly a great way to get around. The bus service is probably just as handy if not more so as there are many more bus stops and routes then what the Metro has to offer - but as far as I am concerned the Metro is a good way to travel for my intentions (and less complicated!).

South Shields was, I had heard, a bit more of a pleasant place then here in Jarrow. The couple hours spent there on Saturday certainly proved to show that there were some very nice parts to South Shields. The Metro station there is located in the downtown shopping area that can quickly give way to the coast (sandy beach in many areas there) down roads to the north and the east. I ventured down past a great park/garden area on the north side of town and to the mouth of the River Tyne. The view there looks out over the mouth of the river (obviously) and to the area of North Shields and Tynemouth. There on the north mouth of the river stands an old fortification (and later WWII gun battery) - something which was very intriguing.

So, night watch begun Saturday afternoon. My first eight hours were a rest period while my partner performed evening rounds beginning at around 1600 hours - as I was to perform night rounds for the 2330 - 0700 period. As it happened, the partner for the nights was Linjohn, whom I room with here in the flat. The four rounds of the ship each night went fine and would take up about half the watch period - the other half of the time I spent emailing, surfing the web for England/Europe travel deals or reading. Thankfully, I was able to sleep for numerous hours each afternoon during my rest period so that the nights were not too bad. Of course, I slept after returning to the flat each morning as well. This occurred for four days in a row - well, almost. On Tuesday, the last night duty day, I had the opportunity to attend BBC's recording of Songs of Praise. The head fitter/mechanic subbed for my normal rest period that night, and, as it worked out, my night watch on Tuesday was covered by the sub for my partner that night, so I managed to get half a nights rest that night and didn't even have to do a round...

Anyway, BBC (you know British Broadcasting Corporation - did you know that in the UK if you own a TV you must also have a TV license just to watch channels received by normal TV antenna - the license fee is reportedly over $200 a year and supposedly all goes to BBC) - starting again - BBC puts on this Songs of Praise numerous times each year and this night they were doing a recoding for a show on May 1st and for a show in the Fall (two show recordings in one night). So, this recording was held at the recently completed Sage at Gateshead (west of here by a few miles and a beautiful performing arts hall) in a smaller hall that was packed with 2,000 folks from the area. All in all eight songs were recorded from the audience (of which choir members made up a large portion, all seated in the center front) and four additional songs from two nationally acclaimed children's choirs. One of the other Mercy Ships people commenting on the night at the Songs of Praise remarked that "it was if the angels were singing with us" - I think they were because it was certainly a wonderful night of singing - mind you that I am not a big singer and so I would think this may be saying something... I hope to maybe tape the show on May 1st and see if any good shots of other Mercy Ships folks or myself made the cut - most of us were all in the back under the darkly lit awning. A good night out at the Sage anyway!

Wednesday was a day off for Linjohn and I, and so we went out for a good chunk of the day. We traveled to Tynemouth and visited the old fortification and WWII gun battery (see picture collage!). In fact, this site overlooking the mouth of the Tyne from the north has been a location for more than just one specific purpose. According to the little pamphlet that provides the written story of the place (Tynemouth Priory and Castle) the headland here has been utilized for centuries. It notes that a early Christian monastery was built here in the early seventh century - and burnt in 800 by raiding Danes. From 1085 to 1529 it appears to have served as a Benedictine Priory (thus the name and some of the church-like buildings). The adjacent fortifications and castle is believed to have existed prior to, but at least by 1296. The religious functions ended around 1529 at which time the entire site (priory and castle/fortifications) were used as a national defensive site. Anyway, there is more history to it including WWII gun battery and so I could go on, but, will choose to stop here - I think you get the idea - the place is old and has extensive history! Much older than anything I am accustomed to seeing in Alaska, much less the US! It appears, according to a quick scan of this pamphlet, that some of the presently visible castle, priory, and fortification (that you can see in the pictures) dates back to the 1200's, with some of it certainly newer then that. Fairly intriguing to think of the many people that have inhabited the grounds. One final interesting point is that many of the grave headstones present there date back to late 1700's and 1800's and are very much inside some of the visible foundations of the priory - I don't know why the graves were placed there (well, apparently in 1700's and 1800's the priory served again as a church, however, why would graves be located in such proximity and location?).

Saturday I was able to get out to downtown Newcaslte and walk around the city quite a bit, including a visit to what is called the Discovery Museum - a wonderful (and free!) museum that tells the tale of Newcaslte from the beginning. Settlements at Newcastle date back to something like 5000 BC according to the scholars. The Romans established a presence here following there invasion of England at Kent in 43 AD. By 122 AD the Romans were concerned with invasion from the North and so Hadrian, Emperor of Rome, ordered construction of what is now known as Hadrian's Wall. It is a stone wall that extended for 80 miles across northern England with an eastern end to the east of Newcastle - it was estimated at six meters high and three meters wide! The Roman's also took a significant interest in the strategic location of what is now Newcaslte due to the geography of this place. Defenses were erected in Newcastle during Roman times (around the time of the wall construction if not prior to) and a Roman bridge was constructed across the River Tyne (which may have been why the defenses were erected - doesn't appear that Newcastle defense is as important as a nearby fortification). Most recently, back to mid 1800's the area boomed with regards to coal mining and shipbuilding, activities that slumped in the 1920's and 1930's. However, with WWII the shipbuilding industry picked back up and continued strong until 1960's. By the early 1970's 50 percent of the service sector was unemployed. Today, some of the area remains economically depressed as many folks do not have jobs or the jobs are just not consistent. However, it appears that the area is economically healthy in areas other than industry and the downtown and river side is spattered with contemporary buildings and reconstructive works. Anyway, I won't try and continue with Newcastle history - suffice to say that the museum provided a very complete overview of the city's very intriguingly checkered past - there is a lot to learn here with regard to the history of the area.

Later Saturday I ventured over to the coast to the town of Whitley Bay and visited the downtown area and beach. I did end up doing many laps around the area trying to find my way back to the Metro station. That was one constant this past weekend - getting lost, or at least disoriented. I even had a good map of the area, which, in classic male stubbornness, I chose not to look at most of the time and so making the tour of the area even greater then expected. In my defense I would at least note that the streets here are poorly marked and have little apparent reason behind how they are laid out! Getting turned around - ok, lost - does seem to be a great way to see an area though.

This past Sunday I was able to make it to church (my first time while here), however, just barely. As I exited the Metro walking in the direction that I remember the church map had shown (or at least I thought it had) it was clear that this was completely the wrong direction. Just as I resolved to going simply for a long walk that day instead of a church service I was picked up by a fellow Mercy Ship'r who had driven by and noted my erroneous direction. Like I said, getting disoriented was a very popular theme this weekend, however, it was good to be found in order to attend a great church service. Following church I walked to Gateshead (southern side of the River Tyne opposite Newcastle) and visited the Quayside (river side) as well as did a bit of grocery shopping. The Quayside is lined on either side with various buildings, old and new, modern and plain, and has a very nice sidewalk right down near the river.

As far as work goes, the remainder of last week was spent at work mainly helping out one of the welders with some simple jobs as well as performing the daily log a number of times in addition to starting a pipe removal job that was finally completed today. Monday and a portion of Tuesday was spent fighting rusted bolts and nuts on a length of approx. 8" inner diameter pipe and butterfly valves in a successful attempt to remove the pipe and valves from their location. A good portion of today (Tuesday) was spent with two other guys moving 16 spare cylinder heads into a recently completed storage space. The cylinder heads were for the main engines (sixteen of them is one complete set for any of the six large engines) and must weight somewhere in the range of 400 pounds (my estimate) with dimensions of 2 x 2.5 feet and a depth of 1.25 feet. Needless to say we didn't lift these, but used a series of chain hoists and some physical effort to jostle them around. Enough physical jostling and handling that I am looking very forward to retiring to bed...

The work day goes quickly and is primarily made up of various jobs as I described above. I enjoy the work and it does feel quite good to have a physical and visible results at the end of the day. In addition, the folks who I work with are very pleasant to work alongside and it makes for an enjoyable day - not that I would expect it to be any less. I am fairly inexperienced working with my hands and so have a lot to learn to be able to know what I am doing - however, I was hoping to get a chance to learn some hands on things like this.

Looking at the collage and the picture of the ship that I had previously sent it is apparent that the perspective given of the ship is deceiving. The length of the ship is 152m (close to 500 feet - I have seen varying length estimates though) and breadth is 23.1m (75 feet) with a gross tonnage of 16,071 tons (not sure if this is British or US, but guessing British tonnage) - not a large ship, but not small either. It is a ship that was built in Denmark in 1980 and has been with Mercy Ships the last six years being retrofitted - it was originally a train ferry. It is strange as many of the signs and labels on the ship are still in the language of the Danes people and so it is a bit tough to figure out some things, however, temporary English termed labels have been made for much of the ship.

The yard where the ship is currently alongside has a contract to complete much of the structural, metal, and cosmetic (including new cabins and the like) on the ship with the engine, galley, bridge, some exterior painting, and hospital equipment (as well as other electric items) being the portions of the ship that are left to the volunteers here working on the ship - I think I got that right, I am still figuring out who does what on the ship. So, maybe needless to say, the ship is not suitable for housing folks at this point in time, but when it is complete it should have room for around 480 people in addition to a deck dedicated as a hospital.

One of the thoughts that occurred during the late rounds while on night watch was the admiring of the work of this ministry in progress. Certainly the ship is 10 months out from setting sail, yet a look around and it is clear that the retrofitted ship is taking shape and from the humble beginnings of the cabins taking shape it is not too far a stretch to think of the work that the ship will be doing a year from now - that is, performing many medical operations and community development programs for people that are certainly in need of such aid. There are of course many different thoughts or perspectives that go through the mind in thinking through such a thing, however, one of the more physical aspects of being in this place with this organization is simply seeing such an organization at work with vision and purpose in mind. Over the past years of life I had given money to non-profits (Christian and non-Christian alike) but never really had a good feel for where that money went other than knowing the specific purpose or general intent of the organization or ministry. What I find here is a very real application of that financial giving being put to use in vivid physical ways that are very visible. The opportunity to view such a perspective is very exciting, I think, as it is clearly demonstrates the benefit that comes with the financial help that is provided to a ministry or organization.

Well, these messages are getting longer and longer. That wasn't intentional on my part - nor do I plan on continued lengthening of any forthcoming messages. It is simply just a comprisal of thoughts from the previous week - stuff that I found interesting and felt like writing on. Sorry that the length is such as it is - I don't intend to bore anyone - of course, maybe some of you won't even make it this far.

Signing off from England for now - hope this note finds you all in good health and spirits.

Cheers!
love,
matt

Saturday, April 09, 2005

England Musings #2

originally sent 9 April 2005
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hiya,

Just thought I would blanket everyone with another email (for some it is your first one - see below for intial email). Sorry it is kind of a mass mailing but if I were to say hello individually my computer time would be extravagant - and, in any case, my emailing regularity is poor to nonexistent historically speaking, so I suppose even one email to a general audience is way above my historical average.

In any case tonight (Friday night here) marks the end of the 11th day here in England and the end of the first full work week. I am not attempting to count the days, rather it is interesting just how quickly this first week has flown by - I didn't imagine it would go this quick.

Last Saturday (2 Apr) there were a group of us that took the minibus up to a town called Morpeth, approx 9 miles north of Newcastle. There we took a walk along a "public footpath" along a river (of which I have forgotten the name - not an easy name to remember anyway) out four miles or so and then took a path in some fields and roads back to the town - 8 miles total roughly, so a good afternoon walk. The countryside was rather pretty. We had a nice day for a walk with some typical (?) England haze which they say is a winter occurrence here for reasons I have yet to find out. I got some pictures which I hope to send in the next week or as soon as I figure out the modem connections needed for a British phone line... One of the things that struck me as odd about this walk or hike (especially coming from Alaska I suppose) is that much of this "public footpath" is in private fields where there were steps for crawling up and over fences and signs directing the public along this trail. It just seemed odd to have a trail along a agriculture field.

Saturday night I had the opportunity to visit a pub with some other folks here and then go to a movie. The pub food was great and this particular pub was located on a beach in South Shields (check out link below) where we could sit at a window table and look out east over the Atlantic Ocean (well, whatever the strait is called between England and Europe). It cost £6.99 for the meal of Sausage & Mash that I sampled - this is about $14 with today's exchange rate. I had to ask what mash was (wanting of course to make sure) and had heads turning at tables across the pub as I was told that it was simply mash potatoes - why they can't just say that in the menu I don't know. Anyway the pork sausage (really good) and mashed potatoes was served in a Yorkshire pudding (think bread bowl but with more of a pastry look/taste) - good stuff I thought. There are other strange names for food - a meal of ham was referred to as "gammon" and potato chips are referred to as crisps - there are many other examples.

map: (removed - too long of a link!)

Following the meal at the pub we attended the movie where I had a hard time shelling out £5.70 (over $11!!!) for a ticket - I thought $8.50 or whatever it is in Alaska now was expensive! Needless to say the novel thing about the movie tickets is that they had assigned seating which made elbowing your way in for a seat hardly a challenge. Something I found to be rather a nice idea in spite of the ticket price. Oh, and a lot of American movies play here, although I believe there are British movies produced.

Jet lag continued to be a problem up until Tuesday night or so. I really didn't think it would be such a tough thing to adjust to, but the time change and traveling sure played havoc with the body. Of course, the success in trumping jet lag may have been due to the sleeping aid (I finally bought sleeping pills cause waking up all night just wasn't fun).

The past week and a half have been fairly involved with getting adjusted to work and surroundings. Haven't done much traveling outside of the group trips on Saturday and it doesn't look like weekdays will accommodate much in the way of getting out of town. The work is such that ever after an eight hour day I do feel tired and I suppose this has to do with the fact that work is physical in nature (as opposed to my previous experience with four years of paperwork and computer time). So, there are a good couple hours in the evenings after work showering up preparing dinner after which not too much time is left before bedtime. In any case there is certainly time to explore some of the local area with evening walks. It seems to me that the weekends will have to hold the time for more serious out of town explorations, but we'll wait and see how it goes.

However, much enjoyment has been found in just visiting with some of the folks that are also here serving with Mercy Ships. Just last night I was invited over to a young couple's house for dinner. They are both from South Africa having been born and raised there and just had a baby girl a few months ago. They were both born and raised in South Africa (they are both white by the way - I know you were wondering...) and have spent a good portion of the last five years outside of South Africa in various countries working. The last year and a half they have been with Mercy Ships - he is a the 2nd Officer (deck officer) and she is staying at home most of the time with the baby.

Anyway, the point is that it has been terribly interesting to visit with folks from different countries - Netherlands, Philippines, West Africa (Ghana?), South Africa, locals from Newcastle and others from greater England area - even a couple from New Hampshire that arrived just a week prior. Visiting with all these folks and learning of their backgrounds and current involvement/motivation/servitude makes me think of just how small a world this seems to be - a novelty for me not having experienced such interactions before. There is certainly a common thread among us all with respect to serving the Lord in the current endeavor, however, the similarities and differences are apparent and accepted - in any case I find this to be a very curious aspect.

Right now I am emailing into the wee hours of the morning as I attempt to prepare for the next four nights serving as night watch aboard the Africa Mercy. 24/7 there are at least two people aboard the ship for purposes of performing a monitoring and security function. This around the clock monitoring is more to keep an eye on the ship for anything out of the ordinary that may be to the detriment of the ship and such monitoring has been going on for some time now. I am to fill in for one of the crew members over the next four days taking the watch from 11:30 pm to 7:30 am. My partner will do the watch from 3:30 pm to 11:30 pm and will then rest while I perform the watch over the night. My rest time is 3:30 pm to 11:30 pm and so I hope to try and sleep some during that chunk of time. We'll see how things work out. I will do four rounds over an eight-hour period with a round of the ship taking about 45min-1hr over the span of eight decks. After the four days are over (Tues morning) I will get a day off (Wed. I think) and then will also not have to do night watch again till sometime in May. Nor will I have to work during the day on Monday and Tuesday - so, needless to say, this won't be a typical work week.

The Africa Mercy has been in dock undergoing repairs for six years this past Monday (it is around 25 years old I think). Right now things are beginning to take shape. The ship was originally a Dutch train ferry such that one of the decks was literally cable of holding numerous trains cars that were driven (or pushed) right onto the ship. The train tracks are still present in the floor of deck 3. A new deck has been added above this old train car deck - you can imagine that there was certainly space for it as the clearance required for trains cars is easily the height of a two story building. Anyway, once complete the ship will hold around 450 crew members including an expected 40 or more children, most of which will attend an on-ship school. Deck 3 will contain the hospital functions including ward, CT scanner, locations for eyes surgeries, pharmacy, and other hospital functions that I am not yet familiar with. Two of the original six main engines are in the midst of being converted to generators that will be used when in harbor and the hospital is up and operating (I don't recall the power output of the generators). The remaining four main diesel engines will obviously be used to convey the ship from place to place. These main engines are 4,500 hp and require 1600 liters of oil in the sump - that would be about something like 422 US gallons of oil - big engines anyway.

Well I suppose that I have rambled on enough for one night. Sorry to go on forever but I figure that writing such emails will help me remember and I can save them for many years down the road when I am old and forget stuff - actually, that already occurs regularly.

Hope all is well with you - cheers!
love,
matt

Monday, April 04, 2005

England Musings #1

originally sent 3 April 2005
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hello!

Well, I made it here to England this past Tuesday and have finally gotten to a point where I feel settled in (as much as is possible at this point). The flights coming over were a bit confused with some poor weather trying to fly out of New York, but still made it - just about five hours later then scheduled. Traveling here wasn't too bad it's the jet lag that is a kick in the butt. I am still trying to get adjusted to the time zone.

It appears that here in Jarrow (think of it as a community near Newcastle, south of the River Tyne) the clocks are nine hours ahead of Alaska and eight hours ahead of Washington/Oregon. The apartment or rather the "flat" where I stay is small by US standards. (one large block spanning building of upstairs/downstairs aparements - will have to send a picture.)

There are four guys that stay here including me. I share a room with two guys from the Philipennes (sp?) who are right near my age and the single room in the flat is taken by a 60 year old pipefitter from the Netherlands. We all get a long fine and can communicate efficiently, however, there is a notable communication gap when it comes to trying to get to in depth in conversation.

I have been to work for two whole days now. The folks here refer to the time on the ship as "work" and rightly so. The day starts at a quarter to seven when the minibus picks us up at our residences and ends at around 4 pm when we are dropped off. We start the morning in the mess with a devotional that runs from around 7 am to 720 or 730. Tea break is at 9 am for fifeteen minutes and lunch is at noon for a half hour. We actually stop work at around 3pm or so to catch the bus at 3:30 pm. The bus ride to the ship yard is not long - the residences of most of the crew are within a five-ten minute drive. In fact, many of the folks live within a block or two of here.

Life is certainly different here and I probably won't feel adjusted until around time to return back to the US. Even understanding the "English" is diffucult at times. There is a local dialect that decended, I am told, from the invading Vikings and northern peoples, that has developed into what the locals call Geordie (sp?). Anyway, it is a very diffucult dialect to understand and I find I have to concentrate very hard to understand what I think is being said. Nonetheless, I don't think I will tire of the novelty of hearing a British accent daily.

In any case I have been helping out on the ship as best as possible. There is still quite a bit of work to go, however, the newly announced (revised) sailing date for the Africa Mercy is February 2006. The ship has been undergoing work now for either five or six years by the end of this week. Many of the people here have been around for years helping out - there are few even who have been here since the ship sailed into the port. I think that is rather incredible. There always seems to be a audible need for additional help though. It looks as though I will be part of the engine crew and have already gotten my feet wet, so to speak. Actually, it is more like I have gotten my hands dirty as the engine room is a place where such work is necessary - something that I had been hoping to have an opprotunity to be involved with. However, the learning curve appears to be very steep indeed.

Just wanted to let everyone know that I made it here in one piece looking forward to the coming weeks!

love
matt